Let’s state the obvious: clothing is the man’s being. This is why we are forever trying to match confidence with comfort, especially in the business realm. While we are drawn to powerful clothing, in the same breath we look for lighter, more versatile pieces that allow us to move comfortably through our days.

As we resume our professional lives and return to the office, Buyer and Style Advisor Ricardo speaks with us about his preferred approach to soft tailoring. Layering is key, he asserts, before showing us how to effectively meet this transition. By highlighting some of his favorite fabrics and garments, Ricardo provides a deeper insight into the possibilities of what he calls “layers of softness”.

Layers of softness… please, elaborate.

I mean, when a gent feels comfortable, the first thing he does is get rid of his jacket. If you wear something under it that looks a little smarter than, say, a formal or regular business shirt, you’re still dressy without being “too naked”. Proper layering enables you to aim for a refined appearance by wearing a piece of knitwear under your jacket.

Layers of softness actually communicates a smooth silhouette. Layering of softness is a confirmation that there’s no shoulder padding, no canvassing, no hourglass shape, it’s totally deconstructed. Let’s say, a feeling of wearing a comfy cardigan but more in a dressy way, with all the advantages and forgiveness of this particular cloth… Of course I realize that every office has a different habitat. On one hand, for example, an architect will wear a utility lightweight jacket with patch flap pockets, a bit more outspoken, while most of my clients feel more comfortable with a welted chest pocket.

In terms of layering, what are the limitations?

Limitations? In my opinion, none… But when we talk about “layering” the question is: what do we wear underneath? It could be a piece of knitwear or a shirt, but regarding shirts we need to be more specific. The formal business shirt should be ignored. The shirt I would suggest and prefer is made from a jersey fabric, because if you wear a lightweight jacket which is forgiving, why should you be limited by a formal business shirt which is unforgiving? Crafted in a pure or blend of wool, and so making for the actual garment to be felt. Another benefit of pairing knitwear is that the closure can be selected with a half zip, crew- or roll-neck – it makes it a little more sporty than to wear it with a classic shirt over time.

Tell us more about your preferred fabrics and the key pieces you would consider.

Loro Piana is often called a marriage of elegance and comfort and I couldn’t agree more. Their fabrics are made from the highest quality raw materials in the world, in their purest form or blended. Contemporary elegance, I believe, demands a sophisticated response. The wide range of styles that result from these superior quality fabrics makes for such a response. And it enables us to offer, outside our extensive lineup, a cut-length, more unique selection for the experienced connoisseur.

Loro Piana Cashmere-Silk Jersey Utility Jacket & Trouser

Two very fine examples of the above-mentioned unique offering are our azure blue lightweight jacket and off-white trousers, both from Loro Piana’s cashmere-silk jersey collection. The epitome of soft tailoring, characterful, powerful clothing. The choice to wear them may be for only the privileged but these two garments are sure to please everyone. This pairing is soft tailoring par excellence and a perfect premise to explore layers of softness.

Sand Stretch Jersely Wool by Loro Piana in 3 Ways

A lightweight jacket is a garment that ticks all the boxes. A cloth which is forgiving due to its drawback, based on a natural fabric, a composition of 97% wool and 3% elastane from the prestigious Mill Ing. Loro Piana, one of our favorites. The elastane that’s added to the cloth adds to its resilience and benefits comfort. Wear it to the office, to attend a dinner party, or pair it with some knitwear, jeans or t-shirt, or with a pair of comfortable shoes. Depending on the occasion, you’ll always strike a homerun with this lightweight jacket. For example, I just came back from Italy, and although this jacket has been stored in my luggage for 48 hours, after unpacking, this companion always guarantees a neat appearance.

So say, during the day I have several official meetings, and in the evening I have a dinner, I am still able to pull it off with the same jacket. The lightweight jacket really feels home in all kinds of surroundings and can be customized to your taste. An hourglass shape is becoming less and less relevant. Lately we are staying away from the, let’s say, more “nervous” appearance of body-fit of the classical sharp tailoring, yet still following the anatomy as much as possible but in a slightly more relaxed manner, so as to give knitwear or layering all the space to multitask with the garment. Whether you choose the utility, safari or 2.5 button model, a lightweight jacket will achieve this effect.

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Cashmere-Silk Two-Way Zip Knit

Within all the options of knitwear my number one choice will always be a two-way zip knit in the cashmere-silk yarn made by Cariaggi. Versatile and my perfect layer for everyday wear. It’s such a treat due to its softness and fine handle. It goes well on top of a smart tee and under-layered with my lightweight jacket – without overdoing it. The cardigan even gives me the option of wearing it with one of my jersey shirts, which in my opinion is an absolutely wardrobe essential, and a garment which is slightly underestimated…

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Reda Wool Jersey Shirts

I advise the active Reda shirt. One of its advantages is that it is also very forgiving, and one of its characteristics is that it is made from wool, which is anti-odor. And in case the wool is a dark shade, the color remains much better conserved compared to pure cotton, due to the fact that wool is yarn dyed and not cloth dyed in comparison to the pure cotton.

Differing from normal cotton shirt fabrics, Reda Active’s offering fully exploits the characteristics of Merino wool for a high degree of breathability, avoiding odors and leaving the skin less damp for an unprecedented level of thermal comfort.

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Vibram Lightweight Shoes

In shows, we offer classics with a leather sole, and we also have a shoe that we call “Lightweight” with an extremely lightweight sole, which is perfect for traveling. In the fall or winter for example, when it’s rainy and damp outside, then the Vibram lightweight sole is also anti-slip, so it’s a light grip sole.

This shoe really goes well with the lightweight jacket. It completes the outfit, because if you wear a lightweight jacket, and underneath it a classic business shoe with a leather sole, it feels and looks odd. It doesn’t make sense, it should be completely in the same DNA, from head to toe… The lightweight DNA absolutely.

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S120 Wool Flannel Trousers

For your trousers, same story. Please skip the usual suspects such as the classical suiting trousers. Select a trouser in a brushed soft wool like a flannel. Of course, it all depends on the selected fabric of your lightweight jacket, but in this outfit, I would definitely go for a flannel trouser or a nice pair of cotton slacks, which is always a good idea. Just keep in mind that as long as the type of fabric matches your look and doesn’t fight each other, it will result in proper synergy and a confident look.

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Wearing layers of softness: what it amounts to

If we define a man’s being as clothing, as we so adamantly began this article, then what we are in fact saying is that a man exists in his clothing. It follows that your choice of what to wear is to choose your way of being, and vice versa. Such a deliberate choice requires characterful, powerful clothing. Garments that challenge us to make purposeful decisions. The garments highlighted by Ricardo for his preferred approach to soft tailoring are ideal examples of this. Lightweight, versatile pieces made from high quality, forgiving fabrics. Wearing layers of softness is subtle, and it brings a lightness of its own. It settles around your body, embraces the armpit and shoulder because it all fits so well.

Being dressed this way speaks volumes. It is neither formal nor casual, but an aesthetic ideal. Here’s a man that answers only to his own style. He feels comfortable, at ease, confident to meet any given situation. This morning, he deliberately chose tailored companions that allow him to win a self-image, a desire, an opportunity, an adventure. As he knows they will.