The world of black tie is one of expectation. Sometimes explicit, often unspoken. We find it amusing that a dress code that so often demands black and white, could have so many gray areas. While etiquette has its place, we prefer to think of it as a suggestion, a starting point from which to find yourself within the formality. Whether that be in the fabric you select, the accessories you decide, the way you tie your own bow tie. Depending on your personal taste, there are so many ways you can style a simple black tuxedo.

Our style advisors have a deep understanding of the rules, if only to help you subvert them. So, we spoke to Jasper to figure out how to discover your black-tie style. Asking him to break down how to go about styling a standard two-piece tux and some of his favorite approaches to festive events – exploring when to wear a cummerbund or choose a tie over a bow tie, to picking the right shirt and pocket square for your look. So, where to begin?

After your tux, the biggest decision you will need to make is your shirt. The shirt as a garment has changed dramatically over time. Initially it was not designed or worn to be seen. Now we have a plethora of fronts to choose from: the traditional pique and pleated bibs to the more minimalist hidden placket. The collars have also undergone innovation, evolving from the stiff standing collars that once were. In fact, what we now call the wingtip, used to be called ‘vader moordenaaror’ or ‘the father killer’ in the Netherlands because it was said they were so stiff that if you moved you could cut the throat of your father standing beside you.

Nowadays people tend to choose their collars based on comfort. Most people have transitioned towards cutaway and semi-cutaway collars. Although, if you’re not one for conformity and attending an event with a dress code that allows for creative interpretations, you could even experiment with wearing some dark, luxurious knitwear.

Next you will need to decide whether or not to adorn your shirt. In the 19th century tuxedo shirts featured a stiff front panel that needed to be secured in place, but traditional buttons disrupted the clean, formal appearance. To solve this, decorative studs were introduced. Today studs come in various designs and materials, adding a touch of opulence to formal attire. We usually always recommend wearing them as they are more elegant than regular buttons and offer the chance to add a personal touch. We have a variety of options in store where you can find beautiful studs and cufflinks as a package, which offers a really polished finish.

The classic choice is, of course, the bow tie – the long-held tradition for which the black-tie dress code is named. However, the more rebellious among us may dare to reach for a tipped tie. Both have their origins in the 17th century Croatian military attire which gained popularity and underwent transformations in France. Whichever you choose, as a focal point of sorts for your look, the material you craft said neckwear from will set the tone for the rest of your outfit.

The size of your bow tie is also an important thing to consider. This should be chosen based on your frame. The width of the bow tie can visually affect the appearance of your face. A wider bow tie can create the illusion of a narrower face, which may be flattering for some individuals. If you have a tall or broader physique, a wider bow tie can help balance your proportions and provide a harmonious look. For that we recommend our new 8cm width. It tends to be more noticeable and makes a bolder fashion statement too.

We always recommend an unfolded bow tie (or one that is pre-folded by hand) to show that you’ve put thought into your appearance and allows you to customize the knot’s size and shape to your liking.

Lastly, a new addition to our offering: the cummerbund – a pleated belt worn to create a more pleasing transition between your shirt and trousers. The cummerbund’s history can be traced back to India during British colonial rule when the British military officers adopted the sash-like waistbands worn by locals. Once brought back to the west, it soon became a popular choice for men to wear with tuxedos and dinner jackets in place of a waistcoat. The cummerbund is making a strong comeback, mostly because it is lighter than a three-piece, especially when indoors with heating or outside on warmer days.

A cummerbund is certainly a more formal approach to black tie. Some who consider themselves less traditional may choose not to wear one. However, if you do, you can still play a little. Instead of matching your lapels or bow tie perfectly, an expected technique, it is possible to play with color. Black is, of course, the most classic but you could contrast that with a midnight blue, or even a daring red.

At least this one is simple. Generally, we always suggest a white pocket square in either cotton or silk. The white creates a pleasing contrast against the dark color of the tuxedo, drawing attention to the chest area and adding a subtle but significant detail. It’s a classic choice that has stood the test of time in the world of black-tie attire. Though it’s rare to delve too far from this tradition, some choose to add small twists, like a hand stitched or colored edge.

Now we have run through the decisions to make, let’s explore some ensembles for festive events. According to Jasper, it all comes down to personal preference, so he put together six looks for different styles to inspire you.

If you have a certain idea of refined elegance, this would be your go-to tuxedo, the epitome of black-tie with refined details and accessories. Firstly, the shirt has a long pique bib, the most classic option available. Pique fronts are timeless for how clean the bed lies underneath the jacket. The shirt also has studs for a formal finish and to stay within what is expected of the dress code.

If the classic look is what you’re after, the key is consistency with your tuxedo lapels. Opt for a black satin bow tie if your tuxedo lapels are satin, ottoman if they are ottoman. Here we have the lapels, bow tie and cummerbund all in black satin. Even the pocket square is hand finished. Finally, Jasper would recommend the historically traditional shoes for this look: patent Oxfords. A patent finish will feel special and the shine adds an extra touch of elegance.

For the person who dares to be different but still would prefer to play within the confines of the dress code, Jasper suggests this slightly bolder style. It’s still quite traditional but adds a little flair and elevation with the choice of pleated tuxedo shirt and unconventional footwear. The pleated bib or plisse in French is still a formal style, however a more unique and historically sought-after option as the pleating technique was considered a sign of craftsmanship in shirt making. While the shoes have the elegance and shine of patent, the choice of penny loafers lends a sense of effortless sophistication to the look. And most importantly because they slip on, they are extremely comfortable to wear as well.

If it’s quite cold and you’re comfortable completely defying the norms of black-tie, you might even consider switching out a traditional tuxedo shirt for a black knit. It’s certainly a more modern approach and can look extremely slick. While it may not be something for a strict dress-code event, this is something you could wear to a festive dinner, out at a restaurant or at home. However, if you expect there to be dancing beware it could get too warm.

Jasper’s advice? Don’t wear just any knit, it should be sophisticated. Something like our cashmere-silk blend is perfect, as it’s quite luxurious and the drape is beautiful. Be sure to pair it with velvet loafers. It would be too crisp, too slick to wear patent shoes, creating conflict in the materials. Instead velvet will add to the tactility of the look and mirror that softness from the knitwear in your footwear as well.

This next option is for those who prefer a more modern approach. The ensemble still shows respect for the tradition of black tie, but with a more minimalist aesthetic. If you just want to keep things simple, go for a classic tuxedo shirt rather than a bibbed front. You can also craft it with a semi-cutaway collar for extra comfort. Jasper suggests still opting for studs in this case, something unobtrusive yet elegant like this onyx silver set. For your footwear, the most sleek and unadulterated model we offer is the aptly named plain toe loafer. In a patent finish, a pair of these will tie this look together perfectly.

This is for the more modern men out there. Playing with fabrics and textures in your accessories is an easy way to experiment with the edges of black-tie without going beyond the bounds of what is acceptable. One of our favorites for this time of year, velvet can add a more festive look during the holiday season as there is a certain decadence to the fabric.

For this particular look, we went for the most modern version of the shirt front: the hidden placket. Having no studs is even more unconventional and lets the focus rest on the bow tie. As mentioned before, the wider, the more prominence and statement you will make with it. When dabbling in something unorthodox like velvet, it is all the more important to have a hand tied bow tie to show that you care, and add that little extra refinement from your fingers. To ensure the look stays balanced, slide on a pair of plain toe loafers in matching black velvet.

A bow-tie is usually preferred for black tie, but there are a few reasons you might choose a tie. You may have a more rebellious personality, you might not feel comfortable in a bow tie yet, or you may be a larger guy. Particularly for the latter, a tie can look more flattering as the length helps to draw the eye down and creates less white space. With a classic tuxedo, a tipped tie could be quite an understated statement. On the other hand, if you were to wear a double-breasted tux with wide lapels like, say Lapo Elkann, it would make you stand out.

Whichever you’re going for, if you’re pushing the boundaries of black tie, Jasper says it’s important to show that your neckwear is a considered choice. He picked a black grenadine tie because the texture and material shows an appreciation of craftsmanship and attention to detail. You can wear any plain white shirt as you will not see much of it. To tie it all together, he picked the patent Derby, also known as the smoking shoe, as it has a slightly slimmer appeal and feels more slick.