This year, we took our places at the long table of RIJKS – acclaimed chef Joris Bijdendijk’s Michelin-star restaurant nestled beside Amsterdam’s Rijksmuseum. We brought together a group of great men and delved deeper into this code we call black tie, exploring personal style and the edges of etiquette. We invited eleven guests from different walks of life to come and find themselves within the formality. It began with a toast from Arno Kantelberg.

“The dress code ‘black tie’ demands a level of attire that is the same worldwide, though it may be given different names in different places. A ‘smoking jacket’ in The Netherlands, is what the ‘tuxedo’ is to the Americans, and the ‘dinner jacket’ to the Brits.

We have Great Britain and the rather curvy Edward VII to thank for this. One day, deciding his ‘tails’ were too uncomfortable while sitting for dinner. So, he designed something new. Cut the backside, elongated the front, changed the usual peak lapels common for a tailcoat in those days to shawl lapels. The dinner jacket was born. A jacket, quite simply, made for dinner.

It wasn’t until American millionaire James Potter met with the King for dinner that it became a ’tuxedo’. He returned to his hometown New York with the new Edward-inspired jacket, wearing it proudly to the Tuxedo Park country club, where it quickly became something of a club uniform. As is often the way with visionary style, high society in America initially rejected the movement – dismissing it as an inappropriate style worn by young eccentrics. But eventually, it took off as an informal summer suit, and settled in as formal dress. Coined in homage to the very club who first recognized its charm.

The ‘smoking jacket’ came into play as people realized their suits didn’t fare well after their post-dinner smoke break. A jacket was introduced to be worn solely for that well-deserved break. Long jackets at first, but soon they became shorter like the dinner jacket and the tuxedo. From the very beginning, made from thick and decadent fabrics. Like some of the velvet styles seen around our table today.

It’s fortunate this jacket is laden with so much history, so many variations in the details and styling that have morphed and changed over the years we can look to for inspiration. A man has multiple personalities within him (don’t ask me exactly how many), but I include myself in this assessment. And one of the beautiful things about clothing and perhaps even the most beautiful thing, is that a jacket, a tie, a pocket square can bring out the very best in us.”

It was a sentiment that echoed in the restaurant that night, with every guest standing confidently in the height of refinement, yet no two looking the same. The men had been asked to each curate their own look for the evening – something for the festive season that resonated with them personally while playing within the bounds of the code.

As explained by our Amsterdam Style Advisors Bastiaan and Ricardo, also in attendance, it could be as simple as silk on your lapels or the fabric of your buttons, a stripe on your trouser, gold in your cufflinks. The centerpiece, of course, the bow tie. The preference always being to tie it yourself, imbuing it with yet more character. Each of our guests created something original and reflective of their personal style then came together to converse, drink, debate, and be merry. We think writer Mo Anwar captured it best with his words at the end of the night.